Processing Black and White Film
In the world of digital photography, processing is replaced by software such as Photoshop. While this does take a lot of time and effort out of it, there really is nothing quite like the final result that a hand processed print will give you, and processing your own film gives you the ultimate control in how much contrast etc. you want your negatives to have.
Below are notes made at college on processing Black & White film.
EQUIPMENT
In order to process a film - you will need the following equipment:
1. A light-tight processing tank
2. Thermometer
3. Chemicals
5. Drying equipment
6. Latex gloves to protect against chemicals
PROCESSING STEPS
1. You need to load the film in the dark, in a light tight room to prevent fogging. Make sure the tank is dry or you could contaminate the film.
2. Once the film is loaded there is no longer any need to be in the dark as the film is safely in the light tight tank, so you can process in the light. The developer, such as Ilford ID11 or Kodak D76, should be added to the tank - 1 part developer and 1 part water. Check the film case for instructions on what temperature the developer needs to be and use the water to bring the temperature up or down. Check the tank for details on how much developer and water you need to measure.
The time needed for the fix can be tested by taking an offcut of your unprocessed film and pouring some fix over it. The time it takes to clear the negative is the time needed! This is usually about 6 mins.
Place the tank under a tap with the top lid off (do not remove the light tight element) and wash through for 20 mins.
6. Wetting agent - 30 secs
This helps reduce the surface tension before you remove the film from the reel and also encourages drying.
Further Notes
Below are notes made at college on processing Black & White film.
EQUIPMENT
In order to process a film - you will need the following equipment:
1. A light-tight processing tank
2. Thermometer
3. Chemicals
- Developer
- Stop
- Fix
- Wash
- Wetting agent
5. Drying equipment
6. Latex gloves to protect against chemicals
PROCESSING STEPS
1. You need to load the film in the dark, in a light tight room to prevent fogging. Make sure the tank is dry or you could contaminate the film.
2. Once the film is loaded there is no longer any need to be in the dark as the film is safely in the light tight tank, so you can process in the light. The developer, such as Ilford ID11 or Kodak D76, should be added to the tank - 1 part developer and 1 part water. Check the film case for instructions on what temperature the developer needs to be and use the water to bring the temperature up or down. Check the tank for details on how much developer and water you need to measure.
- For HP5 film at ISO400 give the developer 13 mins at 20 degrees Celcius
- Agitation is important in order to get consistent results - agitate (tip the tank up and down to wash the developer over the film) every minute for 5 - 6 seconds.
- Push process (extra development) to enhance speed in fast films. Slower films will become overly contrasty so best suited to fast film.
- Pull process (hold back development) if you have accidentally overexposed the film or if you want a contrasty image.
- Have the stop bath ready to pour in exactly on the 13 mins as the developer will continue to develop even while it is being poured out of the tank.
- Agitate the stop bath continuously for 30 seconds.
- Pour the stop bath back into the stop bath container so it can be re-used.
The time needed for the fix can be tested by taking an offcut of your unprocessed film and pouring some fix over it. The time it takes to clear the negative is the time needed! This is usually about 6 mins.
- Agitate continuously for the first 30 seconds, then for 10 secs every minute.
Place the tank under a tap with the top lid off (do not remove the light tight element) and wash through for 20 mins.
6. Wetting agent - 30 secs
This helps reduce the surface tension before you remove the film from the reel and also encourages drying.
Further Notes
- Featureless shadows on the developed film = underexposure
- Low contrast and grey highlights = under development
- Push black and white film by extending the time of development
- Hold back (pull process) by diluting the developer and reducing the time
- Transparency/slide film need E6 processing
- Take care not to over agitate
- Temperature too hot = underdevelop
- Temperature too cold = overdevelop. Increase/decrease time to counter or control temperature issues
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